Gesäuse round via the Gsengscharte

In the northeast of the Ennstal Alps, between Admont and Hieflau, runs the approximately 16 km (9.9 mi) long breakthrough valley of the Enns River, the so-called "Gesäuse." Over this relatively short stretch, the river overcomes a drop of 150 m (492 ft), framed by steep rock faces. The striking peaks, up to 2369 m (7772 ft) high, have always captivated mountain sports enthusiasts and nature lovers. Since 2002, this unique landscape has been under special protection as one of Austria's six national parks.

The destination of the circular hike is the 1228 m (4029 ft) high Gsengscharte, a notch between the Haindlwaldspitze and the mighty Hochtor group, whose eponymous peak rises to 2369 m (7772 ft). The starting point is the Weidendom parking lot, which is subject to a fee and is located near the National Park Experience Center of the same name.

From the car park, a legend trail, designed in 2010 for young hikers and now somewhat dated, leads south along the Johnbach stream. The first 20 minutes are a pleasant walk along the rushing stream. After about 1.5 km (0.9 mi), you reach a junction where you turn left toward the Haindlkarhütte (hiking trail 658).

Now the trail becomes noticeably steeper. The clearly visible path leads uphill over gravel along the "Gsenggraben," a fairly wide gully. After about 10 minutes, you cross to the right side, where the path continues winding upwards on gravelly ground. After another 10 minutes, the character of the trail changes slightly. Now it leads through mountain pine terrain, and the terrain changes accordingly. A real relief after the large amount of gravel in the lower section.

The climb is hard-earned. The path becomes increasingly steep, and a short rest is a good opportunity to take a look back. The rocky backdrop on both sides of the Gsenggraben isn't the only thing that's impressive: To the west, the foothills of the Reichenstein Group rise up, and if you let your gaze wander a little to the north, you can also catch a glimpse of the Admonter Reichenstein.

The path becomes rockier again. Fortunately, thanks to the red-white-red markings placed at short intervals, it's not difficult to stay on the trail. Eventually, huge boulders seem to be blocking your way. At this point, the markings seem to be inconsistent. Crawling through a small hole isn't for everyone, and climbing over the boulders seems to be a somewhat risky undertaking. Alternatively, you can bypass the path above.

The climb continues over rocks and scree. Surefootedness is essential here. The climb continues steadily toward the crux of the climb, immediately before the Gsengscharte ridge. This section is secured with a steel cable, providing some support and safety on the rock, smoothed by wind and rain.

Immediately after the end of the steel cable, you'll find yourself at the Gsengscharte ridge at an altitude of 1228 m (4029 ft). It's taken approximately 2 to 2.5 hours to get here. Now it's worth taking one last look at the ascent path down into the Johnsbach Valley before turning your gaze back ahead.

There, the imposing rock faces of the Hochtor tower into the sky, glowing in the evening sun. A mighty stone wall that could hardly be more imposing. In the shadows a little further down, the next stage destination, the Haindlkarhütte, can already be seen.

The hut is quickly reached and is a great place to stop for a break during the summer months. You can also spend the night there, and since Geäuse is one of the few regions in Austria with virtually no light pollution, it's also the ideal place for a nighttime view of the starry sky.

The subsequent descent is not particularly difficult technically and also somewhat less steep than the ascent through the Gsenggraben. The view is no less impressive. The Große Buchstein (2224 m / 7292 ft) dominates the view on the opposite bank of the Enns Valley.

The descent leads past the old Haindlkar Hut, and after about 45 minutes, you reach the Haindlkar parking lot on the main road in the valley. From here, it's about another 30 minutes back to the starting point. The trail initially leads through the forest until you finally have to cross the main road. Where the road disappears into the tunnel, you then walk along the old road towards the Weidendom parking lot. This road is now reserved for cyclists and pedestrians. At one point, you have a magnificent view of the roaring Enns River in the valley.

By the time we reach the parking lot, the sun has already set and a wonderful day is coming to an end. The Gesäuse region has once again lived up to its reputation. It's a dreamy place. The tour had a lot to offer without having to climb any of the surrounding peaks. Definitely a recommendation.

Tour Facts (Tracked with Bergfex Tours):

Distance: 8,7 km (~ 5.4 mi)
Duration: 03:15 h (without breaks)
Ascent altitude: 639 m (2096 ft)

Useful links:

1. Tour description incl. GPS data on bergfex.at (German)
2. Hochtor-Gruppe on Steiermark360