A day on the Devil's path: Climbing up Tieflimauer

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The Tieflimauer, originally also called "Tuifelmauer" (Devil's Wall), is an 1820 m (5971 ft) high, freestanding rock formation on the long ridge between the Kleiner Buchstein (1990 m / 6529 ft) to the west and the Tamischbachturm (2035 m / 6676 ft) to the east. In its immediate vicinity is the 1601 m (5253 ft) high "Luckerte Mauer", where, according to legend, the devil took a shortcut to win a bet with the priest of Johnsbach. The names of waypoints and hiking trails (Teufelskreuz, Teufelsteig) still recall this devilish activity high above the Enns Valley.

The Tieflimauer belongs to the Buchstein Group. Together with the Admont-Reichenstein Group, the Hochtor Group, and the Zinödl-Lugauer Group, these rugged limestone mountains mark the entrance to the Enns River's breakthrough valley, whose rushing, roaring, and thundering waters in this rugged landscape gave the region its name. The "Gesäuse", often called "Xeis" by locals, has been under special protection since 2002 and is now one of six national parks in Austria.

The hike to the Tieflimauer can be tackled from both the north and the south. This time, we start surrounded by the steep rock faces of the Gesäuse mountains, right next to the roaring Enns River, at the Ennstalerhütte parking lot in the picturesque little village of Gstatterboden. From here, the trail immediately disappears into the forest and leads past the Hubertus Chapel, continuing through the unspoiled woodland to the gravelly bed of a usually harmless-looking mountain stream. Consequently, crossing it is no problem. Hiking trail 608 continues through the forest, now becoming a little steeper, crosses a forest road, and finally joins it after a total of about 1,15 km (0.7 mi).

The forest road climbs gently without much effort. On this section, especially early in the morning, you might encounter a lynx. In fact, the entire, very small population of these enchanting cats is concentrated in the Gesäuse National Park. After about 1,8 km (1.12 mi) on the forest road, you reach a fork in the path. Keep left here and follow the forest road, now hiking trail 646, for another 300 meters (0.18 mi) until you reach a sharp left-hand bend, where the hiking trail continues straight into the forest.

The trail continues along a wide forest path to the Kroisn Alm. From there, a well-trodden path leads further uphill. Red-white-red markings on occasional stones also indicate the way to the upper exit, where the path disappears back into the forest and becomes somewhat steeper. Eventually, the path rejoins the forest road, which you follow for about 300 meters (0.18 mi) to the signpost indicating that the Ennstalerhütte can be reached in 1,5 hours (this time estimate would later prove to be quite generous). Here, in the immediate vicinity of the valley station of the material cable car to the Ennstalerhütte, you leave the forest road behind for good and follow the well-maintained hiking trail in a wide arc up the mountain. The path becomes a bit more adventurous and steeper towards the top, but presents no difficulties.

After a little over two hours, you'll reach the crossroads near the Ennstalerhütte. You'll have already covered 6,7 km (4.16 mi) and climbed approximately 924 meters (3031 ft) in altitude. The path to the right leads to the Ennstalerhütte, which should be reached in about 10 minutes. To the left, the signpost points towards Tiefliemauer and Kleiner Buchstein (hiking trail 645). So, the trail continues westward through a beautiful, open forest, with gentle ups and downs.

After about half an hour, a magnificent view opens up, revealing the Großer Buchstein, the Kleiner Buchstein, and the Tieflimauer. From here, the narrow path leads along the southern flank of the ridge to the Teufelskreuz (Devil's Cross), the junction where the regular path to the Tieflimauer branches off to the right. To reach the start of the via ferrata, continue straight ahead to the signpost for the Teufelsteig (Devil's Path) via ferrata. From here, ascend diagonally over scree to the start of the fixed cables.

The Teufelsteig (C), only established in 2002, is considered the most difficult via ferrata to a summit in the Gesäuse mountains. Although the route is generally considered walking terrain for much of its length, there are a few quite challenging sections, especially in the upper part. Right from the start, the route presents a gentler side. The first rocks (A/B) are climbed without difficulty.

Upon reaching the saddle, the fixed steel cable is interrupted for a few meters. After a few steps, however, you can clip in again and continue using friction climbing over slabby terrain (B).

A technically easy traverse leads to the bottom of the gorge, from where the climb becomes truly exciting. The route ascends steeply through the gorge, like a chimney.

This section requires strength in places and is rightly rated C. Climbing on the rock in shady niches is a real treat. Eventually, the terrain flattens out again, and the steel cable ends in the middle of a rocky slope interspersed with grass and scree.

Finding the way across these so-called "Schrofen" is somewhat difficult, especially since the markings are a bit faded. The best approach is to keep left after the end of the steel cable and ascend in a relatively tight arc to the right, climbing over a few rocky steps. From here, the path is clearly visible again and leads across "Schrofen" (A/B) along a fixed steel cable to the exit at the saddle between the highest point of the Tieflimauer to the west and the eastern summit to the east.

The summit is now only 10 minutes away. The path leads along the ridge, sometimes quite exposed but secured with steel cables. After about an hour on the via ferrata and a total of just over four hours, the small summit plateau is reached. And the view more than compensates for the rather strenuous climb! 

The view of the neighboring peaks Hochtor and Admonter Reichenstein is breathtaking, and the still snow-covered karst plateau in front of the Großer Buchstein provides the perfect backdrop for impressive photos in front of the beautiful summit cross of the Tieflimauer, a rather unassuming, but all the more beautiful peak in the Gesäuse mountains.

To the east, the long ridge leading to the Tamischbachturm is clearly visible, and those who look closely will also spot the Ennstalerhütte. The descent follows the normal route, which, until the exit of the Teufelssteig (Devil's Path), is the same as the ascent route. After that, the normal route leads down the ridge over the east summit, sometimes quite exposed and repeatedly secured with steel cables, partly over rocky terrain and partly through mountain pine thickets.

After reaching the eastern summit, it's worth taking a look back at the summit of the Tieflinauer to the west. The descent path, which in some sections runs directly along the edge of the precipice, is also clearly visible.

The section up to the "Teufelskreuz", where the descent (hiking trail 645a) from the Tiefliemauer rejoins hiking trail 645, requires caution and sure-footedness is essential. From the "Teufelskreuz", the trail leads along the southern flank of the ridge back towards the Ennstalerhütte. Initially, the path descends gently, then climbs slightly again towards the Ennstalerhütte. Although the trail to Gstatterboden branches off about 200 meters (0.12 mi) before the Ennstalerhütte, the detour via the Ennstalerhütte is highly recommended. 

The Ennstalerhütte offers a small but excellent menu, cold drinks, and a magnificent view of the Geäuse mountains. A break there is definitely worthwhile. The hut also offers overnight accommodation and is therefore a suitable starting point for tours to the Tiefmauer, the Kleiner Buchstein, or the Tamischbachturm.

The return to the parking lot in Gstatterboden in the Enns Valley takes about 1.5 hours via hiking trails 646 and 608. There, a challenging hike comes to an end, one that offered a great deal, especially between the Ennstalerhütte mountain hut and the Tieflimauer ridge, with the Teufelsteig being the absolute highlight. This via ferrata is superbly constructed and offers a delightful mix of easier sections, slabby terrain, and near-vertical passages where arm strength is definitely an advantage. All in all, a worthwhile tour following in the devil's footsteps.

Location: Gstatterboden 49, 8913 Weng im Gesäuse, Österreich

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